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Water Leakage

Water leakage & seepage — Damp walls, seelan, leaking basements, tanks or bathrooms. Show 14 products ↓

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Water leakage & seepage
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Matching products (14)

SikaControl®-760

SikaControl®-760

Sika Confirm availability

Why: SikaControl®-760 should be used in all structural concrete that is constantly or intermittently in contact with water such as sea walls, tunnels, basements, structural and precast concrete. SikaControl®-760 can also be used as crystalline waterproofing admixture for cement mortars and plasters. To waterproof structures such as: Water tanks, Reservoirs, Building Basements & foundations, Swimming pools and water parks. (TDS p.1)

  • Increased durability.
  • Reduced sulphate attack.
  • Reduced efflorescence.
Surfaces
concrete · mortar
Pack
SikaControl®-760 is available in 5 Kg & 25 kg pack.
System
Bathroom & Wet Room Waterproofing
Data sheet Request a quotation for SikaControl®-760 on WhatsApp
Sikalite®-101 PK

Sikalite®-101 PK

Sika Confirm availability

Why: Sikalite®-101 PK is used to waterproof cement/sand mortars, screeds and renders for walls, facades, floor toppings and jointing mortars. (TDS p.1)

  • Improved workability without increased water
  • Increased impermeability
Surfaces
screed · mortar
System
Bathroom & Wet Room Waterproofing
⚠ 2 limitations to check
  • All technical data stated in this Product Data Sheet are based on laboratory tests.
  • Actual measured data may vary due to circumstances beyond our control.
TDS p.2
Data sheet Request a quotation for Sikalite®-101 PK on WhatsApp
SikaSeal®-105 PK

SikaSeal®-105 PK

Sika Confirm availability

Why: SikaSeal®-105 PK is used as an economical and easy to use as waterproofing slurry both for external and internal applications. SikaSeal®-105 PK is suitable for the following applications: Water and sewage works, such as tanks and manholes, Basements and lift pits, Retaining walls and bridge structures. (TDS p.1)

  • SikaSeal®-105 PK is part of a complete Sika System for the economical water proofing of water containment structures.
  • Pre-batched components (no water added)
  • Impermeable
Surfaces
concrete
System
Bathroom & Wet Room Waterproofing
⚠ 3 limitations to check
  • Avoid application in direct sun and/or strong wind.
  • Protect from rain and other forms of moisture and liquids until cured as ‘blooming’ might result.
  • SikaSeal®-105 PK is not designed as an aesthetic coating.
TDS p.2
Data sheet Request a quotation for SikaSeal®-105 PK on WhatsApp
SikaTop®-107 Seal PK

SikaTop®-107 Seal PK

Sika Confirm availability

Why: For external and internal waterproofing, on concrete, mortar, brickwork, and steel in: Basements, Swimming pools, Water tanks. (TDS p.1)

  • Pre-dosed mix
  • Easy to mix
  • Easy to use
Surfaces
concrete · mortar · steel/metal
System
Bathroom & Wet Room Waterproofing
⚠ 3 limitations to check
  • Do not use more than 2 kg/m2 per coat
  • For roofing or other structures directly exposed to U.V light, it is suggested that SikaTop is protected with 2-3 cm of cement screed.
  • When required to provide a smooth and level surface, levelling screed or render shall be placed before the application of the waterproofing compound.
TDS p.2
Data sheet Request a quotation for SikaTop®-107 Seal PK on WhatsApp
SikaTop®-550 Seal

SikaTop®-550 Seal

Confirm availability

Why: As a waterproof lining for water retaining structures. (TDS p.1)

  • Easy to apply by brush or in thin trowel applications
  • No additional water required
  • Excellent adhesion to various substrates
Surfaces
concrete · masonry · mortar · natural stone
System
Bathroom & Wet Room Waterproofing
⚠ 3 limitations to check
  • ment.
  • Where subsequent tiling works are to be carried out on vertical surfaces, contact the local Sika representative for advice.
  • Avoid application in direct sun and/or strong wind.
TDS p.2
Data sheet Request a quotation for SikaTop®-550 Seal on WhatsApp

Product facts on these cards are taken from the manufacturer data sheets (page cited on each card) and are being reviewed by our technical team. Always check the data sheet before use.

Step-by-step

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Flat roof section with an exposed coating on the slab, turned up and over the parapets and into the drain outlet. Exposed roof waterproofing A liquid-applied membrane that stays open to sun and rain on a flat or sloped concrete roof (chhat). Use it on a new roof once the slab is 28 days old, or to refurbish a leaking roof before the monsoon. 6 steps Roof section: slab, waterproof coat turned up the parapet, sloped screed, then tiles with sealed joints. Roof waterproofing under screed or tiles Waterproofing that is hidden under a protective screed, brick tiles or floor tiles on a flat roof. Use it when you re-do a traditional roof finish or turn the roof into a usable terrace. 6 steps Balcony section with a waterproof coat under the screed and tiles, turned up the wall, and a railing post. Terrace and balcony waterproofing Balconies, terraces and open verandas that people walk on, usually finished with tiles. The waterproofing goes under the tile bed and turns up at walls, door thresholds and drains. 6 steps Wall section with roof coating running up the parapet and over the coping, plus a coated sunshade over a window. Parapets, copings and chajjas Parapet walls, copings and chajjas (concrete sunshades and projections) take rain on three sides. Leaks here show up as damp on the walls below, broken edges and rust stains. 5 steps Brick wall section with a waterproof coating on the outside face and sealed window frame joints against driving rain. Damp external walls (rain penetration) Rain soaking through brick walls, cracked plaster or open joints around windows causes seelan and peeling paint inside. This guide covers walls above ground. For damp rising from the floor, see the rising-damp guide. 6 steps Brick wall with a row of injected holes along a mortar joint near the base, stopping moisture rising from the ground. Rising damp in walls Ground moisture rising up masonry walls that have no damp-proof course, or a failed one, causes seelan, salts and peeling paint near the floor. The fix is a new chemical damp-proof course injected into a mortar joint, followed by re-plastering. 6 steps
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Basement section with a membrane on the outside face of the wall and under the floor slab, facing the groundwater. Basement waterproofing from outside (positive side) For new basements, or where the soil can be dug away, stop water on the face that the soil and groundwater press against. Build watertight concrete, seal every joint, coat or sheet the outside face, then backfill carefully. 7 steps Basement section with a waterproof coating on the inside face of the wall and floor, groundwater pressing from outside. Basement waterproofing from inside (negative side) In an existing basement where the outside cannot be dug out, water is stopped on the inside face. Plug active leaks, inject leaking cracks, then apply a cement-based coating that works against water pressure from behind. 7 steps Lift pit section below the floor, lined inside with a waterproof coat, with guide rails and a buffer spring. Lift pits and drainage sumps Lift pits and drainage or sewage sumps are the lowest points in a building, so groundwater collects there. Build them watertight, seal the kicker joint, and line them with a slurry rated for water pressure. 6 steps Planter section: waterproof layer, root barrier, drainage layer and soil with plants, draining to a roof outlet. Green roofs, roof gardens and planters Roof gardens, landscaped decks and built-in concrete planters stay wet under soil for years, so the waterproofing must be done before any soil goes in. The data sheets we hold cover bitumen and cement-based layers; ask us about root barriers and dedicated green-roof systems. 5 steps Section of a rooftop concrete water tank full of water, lined on all inside faces, with sealed pipe entries Overhead water tank (drinking water) Rooftop RCC tanks that leak, wet the ceiling below or show rust stains. Repair the concrete first, then line the inside only with products whose data sheet allows drinking-water contact. 6 steps Section of an underground concrete water tank in wet soil, lined on the inside, with joint waterbars and a sealed pipe Underground water tank Below-ground tanks leak out when full and let groundwater or dirty water seep in when empty. Plug and repair, then line the inside with a drinking-water coating; on new tanks, build watertight concrete and joints first. 7 steps Section of a new concrete swimming pool with waterproof coating and tiles on the inside, a sealed pipe and a floor joint New swimming pool (concrete shell) Build the pool shell watertight from day one: waterproof concrete, sealed joints and pipe entries, a cementitious waterproof coating, then pool-rated tile adhesive and grout. A structural engineer designs the shell itself. 7 steps Close-up of a repaired pool wall and floor with a mortar patch, sealed crack, new waterproof coating and new tiles Leaking or damaged swimming pool Older pools lose water through cracks, joints, pipe entries and failed grout, and tiles start to drum or fall off. Find the leak, repair the shell, renew the waterproofing and re-tile with pool-rated products. 6 steps Section of a fountain basin with a water jet, waterproofed and tiled inside, stone clad outside, with a sealed pipe Fountains, water features & ornamental ponds Decorative fountains, water walls and ornamental ponds lose water through cracks, joints and pipe entries, and stone cladding stains. Seal the basin with a cementitious waterproof coating, then fix tiles or stone with water-resistant products. 6 steps Section of an underground sewage manhole with pipes, step irons and a protective lining on the inside faces Sewage tanks, manholes & septic tanks Sewage and wastewater structures leak out, let groundwater in and are eaten away by aggressive effluent. Plug and rebuild the concrete, waterproof it, and add a chemical-resistant lining where the effluent is aggressive. 7 steps Two treatment plant tanks: a covered clean-water tank with a thin lining and an open settling tank with a thick lining Water & wastewater treatment plants Clarifiers, filter beds, clear-water reservoirs and process tanks need watertight concrete, sealed joints and the right lining for each water type. Drinking-water compartments take only products approved for potable contact. 6 steps Cross-section of a lined canal with water, a waterproof coating on the concrete lining and sealed panel joints Canals, channels & open drains Irrigation canals, water channels, nullahs and storm drains lose water through cracked lining, open joints and eroded concrete. Repair the lining, waterproof it, and seal joints with sealants made for submerged use. 5 steps Section of a bathroom floor with waterproofing turned up the walls under the tiles, sloping to a floor drain Bathroom waterproofing (under tiles) Most home leaks start in bathrooms: water gets through grout and cracks, runs along the slab and shows as seelan on the ceiling below or the wall next door. Strip, seal cracks, waterproof the floor and lower walls, then tile, grout and seal the fittings. 6 steps Section of a walk-in shower with full-height waterproofing behind the tiles, sealed pipes, a drain and a glass screen Shower area & walk-in shower The shower is the wettest spot in the house: floor, walls, niche and drain are soaked every day. It needs a continuous waterproof layer from floor to wall, epoxy grout and a mildew-resistant sealant at every corner. 6 steps Section of a kitchen with a sink counter, tiled splash-back, sealed worktop edges and waterproofed tiled floor with drain Kitchen floors, sinks & wash areas Kitchens get water, grease, food acids and cleaning chemicals at the sink, dishwash and cooking line. Home kitchens need sound tiling and mildew-resistant sealing; commercial kitchens also need waterproofing under the tiles and chemical-resistant epoxy grout. 5 steps Section of an upstairs toilet floor with restored waterproofing and a repaired, dry ceiling slab in the room below Toilet or bathroom leaking into the ceiling below Seelan, drips or falling plaster on the ceiling under an upstairs bathroom. Find the source, fix it from the bathroom side, then dry and repair the ceiling slab below. 6 steps Tiled wall shown cut through and from the front, with an orange adhesive bed behind the tiles and orange grout lines Wall tiling (rooms, kitchens and bathrooms) Fixing ceramic, porcelain, mosaic and marble tiles on internal walls. Choose the adhesive by the wall behind the tile (cement plaster, concrete, brick or gypsum) and by whether the wall gets wet. 7 steps Outside wall in section with tiles on orange adhesive and a sealed movement joint at floor level, with rain falling External wall and facade tiles Ceramic, brick-slip and stone-look tiles on outside walls face sun, rain and building movement. Use an adhesive whose data sheet allows outdoor walls, grout for exterior use, and seal the facade movement joints. 6 steps Close-up of floor tiles with joints filled with orange sandy grout and a rubber grout float above Cement tile grout (everyday floors and walls) Coloured cement grout for ceramic, porcelain, marble, granite and mosaic joints, on floors and walls, inside and outside. In wet areas it is mixed with a latex instead of water. 6 steps Tiled shower wall with orange grout lines, falling water, and a cartridge gun filling a joint Epoxy tile grout (showers, kitchens, hospitals) Two-part epoxy grout from a cartridge gun gives stain-resistant, easy-clean joints in wet rooms, kitchens, malls, hospitals and indoor pools. It is for interior use, and the tile face needs protecting during grouting. 7 steps Two concrete slabs on columns with a gap between them sealed with orange sealant over a round foam rod Building expansion and movement joints The gaps between building blocks, slabs, walls and roofs that let the structure expand, shrink and settle. They need a sealant or tape matched to the movement, a correctly sized joint and a backer rod, or water gets in and edges break. 7 steps Building facade panels with orange sealed joints, and a close-up of one joint with sealant over a foam rod in the rain Facade joints (concrete, block, precast and cladding) Movement and connection joints on outside walls: between precast panels, at floor slabs, around infill panels and in metal or stone cladding. A sound joint keeps monsoon rain out and lets the facade move. 7 steps Window in a brick wall with an orange sealant bead round the frame, and a close-up of the frame-to-wall joint Window and door frame sealing Sealing the gap between aluminium, uPVC, steel or timber frames and the wall, plus glass-to-frame and interior finishing joints. This is a common place for monsoon rain to get into a home. 6 steps Two double-glazed panels meeting at an aluminium mullion, sealed with orange silicone, with rain outside Glazing, curtain walls and shopfronts Weather-sealing joints in glass curtain walls, windows, shopfronts and metal cladding, and the specialist silicones used in structural glazing and insulating glass. This is professional facade work and needs project-specific adhesion tests. 6 steps Bath against a tiled wall with an orange silicone bead where the bath rim meets the tiles, and a shower running Sanitary sealing (baths, basins, showers and kitchen tops) Silicone joints where tiles meet baths, shower trays, basins, WCs and kitchen worktops. Choose a mildew-resistant sealant that suits the surface, and reseal before water gets behind the tiles. 6 steps Pipe passing through a concrete floor slab with an orange sealing collar round it and orange sealant at the top Pipe and service penetrations Pipes, ducts and cables passing through basement walls, tank walls, roofs and fire-rated floors are weak points for water and fire. Seal each one for its job: watertight, weathertight, fire-rated, or a simple interior gap. 6 steps Wall section with water-bearing soil outside; angled drilled packers inject resin into the crack from the dry inside face. Leaking cracks & active water seepage Cracks and holes that let water through basement walls, tanks, roof slabs or retaining walls. First stop running water, then seal the crack with elastic injection, then waterproof the surface; rigid epoxy is not used while a crack is wet. 7 steps Plastered wall with hairline cracks filled from a caulking gun and a facade coating being rolled over the repairs. Surface & plaster cracks (non-structural) Hairline and map cracks in plaster, renders and concrete surfaces, mostly from shrinkage and heat, which let rain in and spoil paint. This guide covers telling them apart from structural cracks, filling them with the right sealant, and preventing them in new plaster. 7 steps Basement wall and base slab of waterproofed concrete holding back ground water, with a waterstop in the wall-slab joint Waterproof (watertight) concrete For basements, water tanks, pools and sewage works, make the concrete itself resist water with a low water–cement ratio, an integral waterproofing admixture and sealed construction joints. This is for new pours; it cannot fix a structure that already leaks. 7 steps Floor section: flexible polyurethane floor over primer, coved up the wall and bridging a hairline crack in the slab. Polyurethane & elastic floors Polyurethane floors are tougher and more flexible than epoxy, can bridge fine cracks and, with the right seal coat, resist UV. Use them on crack-prone slabs, for comfortable decorative interiors, on balconies, and as PU-cement screeds where heavy wear and heat occur. 7 steps Car park deck section with a coated, sloped surface draining to a gully, a sealed joint, rain and a car tyre. Car-park decks & ramps Car-park decks face tyre wear, oil, water and, on the open top deck, sun and monsoon rain. A crack-bridging resin system with a UV-resistant seal coat and sealed joints protects the slab and the floors below. 7 steps
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